Figure 1. Platinum and gold bars
There are still those who are sure that platinum and white gold are one and the same. The misconception appeared because visually they are similar – they are both silver in color, shine spectacularly, are used in jewelry, and are not cheap. But despite the similarities, they are not the same metal. If you want to know what is the difference between platinum and white gold, as well as get sound advice on which of them is better to choose for a ring or earrings – read our article.
What is white gold
Fig 2. Nugget of gold
To begin with, let’s remember the definition: “Gold (Aurum) is a noble yellow metal, the seventy-ninth element of Mendeleev’s periodic table”. The key here is “yellow color”. There is not and cannot be white gold in nature. What is presented in jewelry showcases is an alloy of gold and mixtures of other metals.
So, if the ring has a 750 grade (the most common), it means that the alloy contains 75% gold, and the remaining 25% is silver, palladium and nickel. If you have a 585 grade product, it contains 58.5% gold, and the rest is ligature, which in addition to silver, nickel and palladium may contain zinc, copper and cadmium. It is the ligature that is “responsible” for the silver luster of white gold jewelry. You can read more about assay and ligatures in the article “What is gold assay”.
Sometimes rhodium plating is used to turn a yellow gold ring into white gold. It is applied to the surface of the jewelry by electroplating. But it is important to understand that such a coating is short-lived, and after about a year tarnished product with yellow areas protruded again have to carry to the jeweler. And this will not be cheap. In addition, many relatively soft gemstones (pearls, opal, emerald and others) can be seriously damaged by rhodium plating.
What is platinum
Fig 3. A nugget of platinum
Platinum is a silver-colored metal that is actively used both in the jewelry industry and in technical fields. It is involved in the production of medical devices, LCD displays, fertilizers, dentures, and the like.
This white metal is much rarer than gold – nowadays there are only 190 tons of platinum per 2-3 thousand tons of gold mined annually. At the same time, the bulk of platinum is extracted from the subsoil in the countries with the largest reserves – South Africa and Russia.
The history of the silver metal in modern human culture is about four centuries, although it has been known to Andean civilizations much longer. By the way, it was the conquistadors who terrorized the Andes that platinum owes its name. However, until the XVIII century in the Old World to this metal because of its refractoriness treated negligently (melting point of platinum 1768.3 ° C, and gold – 1064.18 ° C) – a little better than garbage.
It was not until the 18th century, thanks to improved metallurgical technology and a French king, that things began to change. Gradually, platinum won hearts and wallets until it was recognized as the queen of noble metals.
Differences between white gold and platinum
But back to the question of the difference. Do you know what the main difference between platinum and white gold is for the consumer? The price, of course.
Price
Have you ever noticed that platinum in jewelry is a more expensive metal than gold? At the same time, if you look at the cost of bullion bars in any small or even decent bank, the picture is the opposite. That is, gold in a bank is more expensive than platinum, and approximately twice as much. Why? It’s all about the grade.
In the Russian metric system, a piece of platinum jewelry will have 850, 900 or 950 grade. There is also 999, but it is used only for ingots in banking and industry. But you will not find rings made of gold of 900 or 950 grades – maximum 750.
Gold is a soft metal that is “strengthened” by ligature. And platinum – very hard, so it goes to the production of jewelry almost without additives. The price of the product is calculated based on the content of pure noble metal in it. There is less gold in a gold ring than platinum in a platinum ring. Banks do not sell jewelry, but 999 bullion.
Weight
The next difference arises from the density of both metals. From the school course of physics, you most likely remember that the denser a substance is, the heavier it is. Metals of the platinum group are considered to be among the densest on Earth.
For example, platinum has a density of 21.09-21.45 g/cm3. By this indicator, it is only slightly inferior to the two densest substances of terrestrial origin – iridium and osmium. If you don’t believe me, take a look at the Mendeleev table. A standard brick, if someone thought of making it out of platinum, would weigh 40 kilograms. Gold is “looser” – 19.32 g/cm3. That is, of the two absolutely identical pendants or wedding bands heavier will be platinum.
Plasticity
Both materials are considered plastic. From 1 gram of platinum it is quite possible to pull a string 2000 meters long, and from gold – about 3000 meters long. However, even very good jewelry makers find it more difficult to work with platinum than with gold. And this indicator is also included in the price of products.
Color
Since white gold contains a high percentage of ligature, over time, a piece of jewelry made of it may become yellow. This does not happen with platinum.
3 ways to tell the difference between white gold and platinum when buying jewelry
Fig 4. How to distinguish between white gold and platinum in jewelry
So, we have found out what the difference between white gold and platinum is. Now let’s put this knowledge into practice and understand how to distinguish white gold from platinum if you have already come to the jewelry store.
The assay
Take a look at the assay. If the product is labeled 585 or 750, you are looking at gold. If on the inner side of the ring there is 950 or 850 or 900 – it is platinum.
Price
Jewelry made of platinum is more expensive – this is due to the higher content of precious metal in them. In a gold ring it will be a maximum of 75%, in platinum – 95%. The price is also affected by the complexity of processing. Platinum is a more “dense” metal.
Color
How to distinguish white gold from platinum visually? It is quite difficult, especially if the gold jewelry has rhodium plating. Therefore, it is better for the layman to use other methods. If there is no such coating, then the warm yellowness in white gold is still distinguishable, unlike the pure, cold, grayish color of platinum.
Platinum jewelry is generally not rhodium plated, unlike gold jewelry. Therefore, you can determine the presence of rhodium plating by taking a closer look at the piece in bright light. At a certain angle, the glare of rhodium plating will have colored shades – red, blue, green. The glare from platinum is not colored.
So what is better – white gold or platinum
And finally, the main question: platinum or white gold – what is better? In fact, it all depends only on your taste, preferences and opportunities. Each material has tons of pluses. White gold looks as expensive and elegant as platinum, but sometimes costs half as much. Besides, it is universal and perfectly combines with gold of other shades. And don’t forget – white gold is ideal as a setting for colorless diamonds. They say it was invented to make such diamonds look more dazzling.
Platinum has a completely inexpressible cold color, and it is completely natural. It will not have to be “corrected” by a jeweler over time, unlike gold jewelry. In addition, due to its durability, this metal is more resistant to scratches and deformation, although it is not immune to them. Platinum is perfect as a setting for colored gemstones – sapphires, emeralds, rubies and others. In an ice-white frame gems look even brighter. The choice is yours.