Gold used in the jewelry industry is actually an alloy of gold and other metals. This is mainly due to the fact that pure gold is a material that is too soft. The addition of ligatures makes it possible to achieve certain chemical and physical properties, making the noble metal suitable for making jewelry that is resistant to deformation. Ligatures also affect the color of the alloy. Depending on the proportion in which they were added to gold, you can get an alloy of different colors.

The exact composition of the alloy is determined by GOST 30649-99 and GOST P 51152-98, which regulate the proportions of metals added to gold. Alloys are labeled with letters and numbers. Gold is labeled as “Zl”, silver as “Sr”, Copper as “M”, zinc as “Ts”, platinum as “Pl”, Palladium as “Pd”, and nickel as “N”. The number denotes the % of impurities added. For example, gold ZlSrM 585-80 is 585 gold, with 8% silver and 33.5% copper added.

The most common colors of gold

In the jewelry industry, white, yellow and red gold are the most popular.

Біле золото

What the color of gold depends on
Figure 1. White gold

Silver, platinum, palladium, nickel, zinc and other additives are used to brighten the sun metal. The grades and compositions of white gold.

GradeSampleFe%Ni%CuB%Pb%Zn%Ag%O%Sb%Bi%Cd%Au%Pd%
ZlSrPd585-255-160585up to 0.15–––up to 0.005–25 – 26up to 0.007up to 0.005up to 0.005–58.5 – 5914.65 – 16.3
ZlSrPdC585-287-100up to 0.15–––up to 0.0050.95 – 3.6328.2 – 29.2up to 0.007up to 0.005to 0.005–58.5 – 599.5 – 10.5
ZlSrPdKd585-280-100up to 0.15–––up to 0.005–27.5 – 28.5up to 0.007up to 0.005up to 0.0051.65 – 4.3358.5 – 599.5 – 10.5
ZlSrNC750-150-7.5750up to 0.157 – 8––up to 0.0050.65 – 3.3314.5 – 15.5up to 0.007up to 0.005up to 0.005up to 0.00575 – 75.5–
ZlSrPd750-100-150up to 0.15–––up to 0.005–9.5 – 10.5up to 0.007up to 0.005to 0.005–75 – 75.513.65 – 15.33
ZlSrPdN750-90-140up to 0.150.15 – 2.83––up to 0.005–8.5 – 9.5up to 0.007up to 0.005to 0.005–75 – 75.513.5 – 14.5
ZlSrPdN750-70-140up to 0.152.15 – 4.83––up to 0.005–6.5 – 7.5up to 0.007up to 0.005to 0.005–75 – 75.513.5 – 14.5
ZlSrPdNKd750-90-85-4up to 0.153.5 – 4.5–0.008 – 0.04up to 0.005–8.5 – 9.5up to 0.007up to 0.005up to 0.0051.11 – 4.8275 – 75.58 – 9
ZlNCM750-7.5-2.5up to 0.157 – 813.25 – 15.73–up to 0.0052.1 – 2.9–to 0.007up to 0.005to 0.005–75 – 75.5

Жовте золото

What the color of gold depends on
Figure 2. Yellow gold

Yellow gold is considered the most classic variant. The following compositions have a traditional yellow color without tints.

GradeSampleFe%Ni%CuPb%Zn%Ag%O%Sb%Bi%Au%Pt%
ZlSrM375-20375up to 0.15–59.35 – 60.63up to 0.005–1.7 – 2.3up to 0.007up to 0.005up to 0.00537.5 – 38–
ЗлСрНЦМ585-80-8.2-2.5585up to 0.157.7 – 8.720.65 – 23.93up to 0.0052.2 – 2.87.5 – 8.5up to 0.007up to 0.005up to 0.00558.5 – 59–
ZlSrM750-125750up to 0.15–11.15 – 12.83up to 0.005–12 – 13up to 0.007up to 0.005up to 0.00575 – 75.5–
ZlSrM750-150up to 0.15–8.65 – 10.33up to 0.005–4.5 – 15.5up to 0.007up to 0.005up to 0.00575 – 75.5–
ZlSrPlM750-80-90up to 0.15–6.15 – 8.83up to 0.005–7.5 – 8.5up to 0.007up to 0.005up to 0.00575 – 75.58.5 – 9.5

Червоне золото

What the color of gold depends on
Figure 3. Red gold

Red gold is considered to be especially popular in the Russian Federation and former CIS countries. The reason is quite simple: it was the red shade of gold that was produced during the Soviet era. At the chemical level, the shade of red gold is associated with the use of copper in a fairly large percentage of the composition. Red gold has the following compositions.

GradeSampleFe%CuPb%Ag%O%Sb%Bi%Au%
ZlSrM375-100375up to 0.1551.15 – 52.83up to 0.0059.5 – 10.5up to 0.007up to 0.005up to 0.00537.5 – 38
ZlSrM375-160up to 0.1545.15 – 46.83up to 0.00515.5 – 16.5up to 0.007up to 0.005up to 0.00537.5 – 38
ZlSrM500-100500up to 0.1538.65 – 40.33up to 0.0059.5 – 10.5up to 0.007up to 0.005up to 0.00550 – 50.5
ZlSrM585-80585up to 0.1532.15 – 33.83up to 0.0057.5 – 8.5up to 0.007up to 0.005up to 0.00558.5 – 59
ZlSrM585-200up to 0.1520.15 – 21.83up to 0.00519.5 – 20.5up to 0.007up to 0.005up to 0.00558.5 – 59

Крім звичних нам основних кольорів, золото може бути жовто-зеленим і зеленим (схожим на пляшкове скло), рожевого відтінку, кремового кольору.

Прагнучи до ексклюзивності, ювеліри також розробили досить несподівані рішення. Наприклад, синє золото, до складу якого входять кобальт, сталь і хром. Точні пропорції досі засекречені. Синє золото, відоме ще з часів скіфів, має у своєму складі галій. Ще один секретний рецепт пов'язаний з фіолетовим золотом, яке виготовляється шляхом додавання алюмінію. Коричневе і чорне золото отримують шляхом обробки металу: фактично, колір досягається за рахунок плівки на поверхні виробу.

В якому кольорі золоті діаманти виглядають краще

Традиційна оправа для діамантів - біле золото. Цей тренд був закладений ще в Tiffany's, коли в 1886 році Чарльз Льюїс Тіффан запатентував модель обручки з білого золота з одним діамантом, прикрашеним короною з крапанів. Білий метал підкреслює холодний блиск діамантів, а оправа і камінь починають працювати як одне ціле. Але тоновані діаманти можуть мати чудовий вигляд і в жовтому, червоному, рожевому або навіть зеленому золоті.

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