What a “dancing” diamond is and why it “dances”

Fig 1. Dancing diamond

They say that for the most part jewelers are conservative people and are not partial to any innovations. But when innovations in jewelry do happen, they make a sensation, make the whole world stand still in mute admiration and then rush to the stores. The “dancing diamond” produced just such an effect a few years ago.

No, this is not some new kind of cut diamond. A special cut and a special mount in the cast make the stone “dance”.

Mounting in the setting

There are four main types of stone mounting in a setting:

• krapanova – the mineral is held on the setting with the help of “paws”;
• corning – the stone is fixed directly in the metal with the help of corners;
• blind (rim) – the gem is fixed in the frame and crimped by it around the entire perimeter;
• special group.

Each of these groups has many subtypes (we have discussed this issue in detail in the article “Types of stone setting in jewelry”), and the most common ones are krapanova and blind. But if we simplify things, it turns out that there are only two ways of fixing a stone in a setting: either it is rigidly fixed in it, or it is fixed only by one edge and has relative mobility – as, for example, in earrings or pendants.

However, a third technique has been invented that makes the diamond “dance”. The stone is fixed in the middle of a wide frame-frame on the supports-“ears”, remains relatively mobile and fluctuates even from a slight breeze. At the same time, jewelers choose a rather simple design of the cast – so that nothing distracts attention from the play of light in the diamond and from the “dance”.

The method looks unreliable – it seems that the gem is about to leave its “frame” and get lost, but this is a false impression. In fact, such fastening is not inferior to rigid fastening, and that is why in jewelry with “dancing diamonds” you can safely do the same things as in those where the inserts are rigidly fixed.

Cut

The classic cut of a dancing diamond is and remains the 46 facet cut. Only this number of facets and their arrangement, according to the creator of the concept, gives the stone the ability to maximize the reflection of light rays and gives it a special cross-shaped glare. However, jewelry houses all over the world, delighted by the idea of “diamond dance”, arbitrarily choose the cut for “dancing” stones in their jewelry. Some prefer the classic with 57 facets, while others prefer the “pear”, “princess”, “oval” and others.

Dancing diamond – what is it

Fig 2. A ring with a dancing diamond

Diamonds are valued first of all for their fantastic ability to refract light rays, to sparkle, catching even the tiniest ray and turning it into a magical scattering of shining highlights. It is this property of cut diamonds that jewelers strive to reveal and enhance with the help of cutting. And it was in the pursuit of even brighter brilliance and play that the “dancing diamond” appeared.

Thanks to the special design of the setting, the diamond floats between the surfaces of the cast, constantly oscillating from the slightest movement and scattering a sheaf of sparks. This effect is enhanced by the fact that the gem does not touch the wearer’s clothes or parts of his body – it is raised above them and balances in the center of the setting as if on a swing.

The inventor of the “dancing diamond”

Fig 3. Earrings with dancing diamonds

A talented “choreographer” who taught stones to “dance” is a Japanese jeweler and gemologist Hidetaka Dobashi. The master devoted 30 years of his life to precious stones: he studied cutting techniques, calculated the spectrum of radiance and the necessary number of facets to create certain effects. His first successful project was an eyeglass strap to which diamonds were attached with magnets.

The master has been working with colored precious minerals for many years, but in 2010 he had the fantastic idea to “bring a colorless diamond to life”. He developed the concept and the setting (the jeweler came up with the cut a little earlier) and spent a whole year on it. However, the idea found neither the support of connoisseurs nor investors at the 2012 Hong Kong exhibition.

Mr. Dobashi did not give up and made another one hundred and fifty pieces of jewelry with “dancing” stones: rings, pendants, earrings and others. And that’s when success came to him, and jewelry houses flooded the master with offers of cooperation.

In 2013, the discovery was patented, and the new jewelry went to conquer the world. And they conquered! Style icons, ladies of high society, famous businesswomen, politicians and many others gave them their heart. Even representatives of the British royal house appear from time to time in “dancing diamonds”.

“Dancing diamond” – the best gift

Fig 4. Pendant with a dancing diamond

Everyone remembers the phrase about “girls’ best friends”. But next to the “dancing diamond”, compared to its mesmerizing play and dazzling brilliance, other jewelry can only claim to be good buddies. And this is indeed true. Therefore, if you want to give a piece of jewelry that is guaranteed to become a favorite – choose jewelry with “dancing diamonds”.